April 25: Rebecca Pan practices with her band for a concert at the Wynn casino in Macau.
Rebecca, 78-years-old, has performed with Louis Armstrong, but her brass section is far more familiar today. The trumpeter has performed with her for more than 40 years.
I leave the studio in the Wan Chai neighborhood. Bars and strip clubs line the street. An old woman wraps her arms around my body. “Cheap drinks, nice girls,” she repeats. “I have to go,” I say. She struggles to maintain her grip, then I’m free.
In the evening, at Lan Kwai Fong, I meet with Joyce and friends. It’s my first night out in Hong Kong. The Lan Kwai Fong bar district is one of Hong Kong’s most popular (along with Wan Chai). I’m surprised by the laid back atmosphere on the ground floor bars. I don’t dance, so I can’t comment on discos or upper-level clubs (which I assume are the places that earned Lan Kwai Fong its wild reputation. But I don’t really know).
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