North to South: Tap Mun Island, Jumbo Floating Restaurant

May 27: I visit far-removed Tap Mun Island (塔 門, or Grass Island).

The “Public Transport Atlas” proves invaluable or navigating Hong Kong’s massive (although straightforward) system of public transport from Ap Lei Chau to northeast New Territories.

After bus 592 to Causeway Bay, I take the MTR to Diamond Hill (after two line interchanges), bus 90 to Sai Kung, bus 92 to Wong Shek, ferry to Tap Mun. The trip takes close to two hours, but the bus departures seem to be synchronized, which saves a potentially long wait in between. I wander Tap Mun, a small island known for its camp grounds, wandering cows and seafood. The trail around the island’s perimeter takes about an hour and a half, very leisurely.






The sprawling Sai Kung East and Sai Kung Wset Country Park preserve the natural integrity of vast swatches of mountainous and oceanfront land (with plenty of well-maintained trails). I save these trips for a future day. I’m hungry, and don’t feel like eating alone. The long return trip back south takes me to Joyce and her mother for dinner at a Hong Kong culinary legend, the Jumbo Floating Restaurant, moored in the middle of Aberdeen Harbor. A slew of small private junks and sampans offer onboard meals along the main stretch of Aberdeen’s waterfront. These places would undoubtedly offer a lower price, and completely different experience, than Jumbo (albeit, better suited to my sweaty white t-shirt and baseball cap).




Captains of different walla-wallas tout transport to Jumbo. WARNING. Don’t be fooled. Jumbo offers free ferry service. Look for the flashing Christmas lights and the enormous “Jumbo” sign.



Jumbo is notorious for its pricey fare. Joyce and her mother pour over the menus and order a dinner set of their own design – not on the menu – pasta in cheese sauce with lobster, Peking duck (my first time eating the dish), and to make full use of the duck, lettuce wraps of minced duck, soup boiled from the bones, and a plate piled with the leftover parts. The quantity of food is overwhelming. So is the quality. And, unfortunately, so is the bill – around $1,500HK (including cucumber/tofu appetizers and tea) – but most of the cost came from the lobster pasta at around $850.



Mrs. Choi treats us. She’s been winning in mahjong, says it’s a reason to splurge.

Thank you!

In Cantonese, “mm-goi (唔 該)” means “thank you (for a favor),” as well as “please,” and “excuse me.” When someone gives you a gift, like buying dinner, bigger thanks are needed. Use “Do je (多 謝)” in this instance (“many thanks”).

I can’t say “do je” enough – for both this meal and my stay in the Choi family’s home.

多 謝, 多 謝, 多 謝, 多 謝, 多 謝!

Here’s a link to the video that Joyce’s mother took at Jumbo:
http://video.xanga.com/amywong0709/d02e8760449/video.html

Before leaving Jumbo, we pose for photos on the throne in the center of the enormous third-floor dining room.



My camera lens fogs over when we leave the air-con. It creates an interesting effect.